Please note:
In order to handle snakes you need to hold a permit from the
Environment Protection Authority (or the equivalent in your
state). It is illegal to handle snakes for any reason if you
do not hold such a permit.
Introduction
This section briefly
outlines the basic procedures and husbandry of reptiles for wildlife
volunteers likely to encounter them. It only covers land snakes,
lizards and tortoises and does not cover marine turtles and crocodiles,
which, if encountered, should be referred to people or organisations
used to dealing with them. This is by no means a complete guide
to reptile care, but should enable the novice to adequately care
for sick or injured reptiles on a short term basis. More detailed
texts on reptile care, diseases and treatment are listed at the
end.
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Identification
Correct identification
is the most important step to take when presented with a sick
or injured reptile. This is particularly important with snakes
because a large proportion of our snakes are venomous, and some
of them are the deadliest in the world. If you do not have the
means or the confidence to correctly identify a snake presented
to you, then you should regard it as potentially dangerous and
refer it to someone who does. Accurate identification of lizards
and tortoises is perhaps less critical, but you should be able
to identify them into their general groups, so that you know how
and what to feed them. Tortoises are freshwater tortoises, and
lizards which are most commonly presented are skinks, such as
blue-tongues, and pink-tongues, dragons, such as bearded dragons
and Eastern water dragons: and monitors (or goannas).
There are a few good
snake and reptile identification books available in most bookshops,
and a couple are listed at the end of this section.
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Handling
of Reptiles
Reptiles, like other
animals should be handed gently and confidently. Only use the
amount of restraint necessary to enable you to efficiently accomplish
your task - don’t over restrain - it’s stressful.
Snakes:
Non-venomous snakes
can be picked up by the tail close to the vent, for short periods
of time; or mid-body. If holding for longer periods of time, support
the body with both hands. Some non-venomous species will bite,
especially pythons, and may need to have the head restrained whilst
being examined or treated.
The thumb and middle
finger should hold the neck just behind the angle of the jaw,
with the index finger on top of the head. The less dangerous clapid
snakes can be handled in a similar way, but all but the most harmless
of them should be handled only by experienced herpetologists.
Lizards:
Skinks (remember they
shed their tails, so don’t handle them by their tails) -
support their body in your hand, with a thumb and/or index finger
around their neck to prevent them from wriggling free. Dragons
can be restrained by the tail with one hand and supported under
the thorax and abdomen with the other. Monitors - hold only forelegs
against the thorax with one hand, and the hand legs against the
base of the tail with the other. Monitors have very sharp and
dirty teeth and can inflict savage wounds when they bite - respect
the head. They also have very sharp claws, which is why you must
restrain all four legs.
Tortoises:
Relatively easy to handle
- larger specimens can be gripped with both hands on the edge
of the carapace (the top shell). Tortoises can inflict nasty bites
if they get the chance - so respect the head.
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Husbandry
Housing:
Snakes and lizards can
be adequately housed in heat boxes of various designs. The basic
requirements are that they be secure, that they have a source
of heat and be reasonably ventilated. A simple wooden box with
a top or front opening door and a perspex or glass side (or door),
will serve adequately. Heat can be provided by heating pads or
incandescent bulbs, which should be guarded to prevent snakes
from coiling around them. The floor of the box should be covered
with newspaper for ease of cleaning and a hide box and basking
platform for comfort.
Tortoises are best
housed in aqua-terraria which provides water deep enough to allow
complete submersion and an area of dry land preferably with a
heat source, and large enough to allow complete drying out. Ideal
water temperature is 25c, which if necessary can be maintained
with an aquarium heater, and if possible test and maintain the
pH of the water at 7.
Heat and Humidity:
The temperature within
heat boxes should average 25-30c for most snakes and lizards.
Ideally, a range of temperatures should be provided, by placing
the heat source close to the basking platform, or at one end of
the box. Reptiles which are going to be kept for long periods
of time should have access to UV light either naturally or by
an artificial source such as a black light.
Humidity is dependent
on ambient humidity, temperature and surface area of water bowls
in the box. Water bowls with a large surface area will cause high
humidity within the box, those with a small surface area - less
humidity. Some of the arid region reptiles can be a bit susceptible
to respiratory problems in high humidity, so water bowls should
be appropriate size, or only placed in the enclosure 2-3 times
a week.
Transportation:
Tortoises can safely
be transported in cardboard boxes, whilst the most convenient
mode of transport for lizards and snakes is in a pillow case.
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Reptile
Diet
Snakes:
Snakes are entirely carnivorous
and can be fed small rodents or pinkies (baby rats or mice). The
smaller snakes may require skinks or force feeding with pinkies.
Snakes are fed once weekly.
Tortoises:
Tortises are entirely
carnivorous and should be fed whilst in the water, an array of
fish, yabbies, shrimps, worms, dog food or chopped meat and liver.
Wombaroo reptile supplements are available. Young tortoises should
be fed on a daily basis, and adult tortoises three times weekly.
Lizards:
- Large skinks can be
fed soft fruits and vegetables, boiled egg mixed with dog food,
dandelions, insects or reptile supplements.
- Dragons are mostly
insectivorous and are therefore fed a few times each week -
insects, meal worms, mouse and rat pinkies, birds, fish, fruit,
egg or raw meat. It is also necessary to supplement dragons
with calcium.
- Monitors are fed once
weekly on small mammals, egg and raw meat.
Remember that all reptiles
should be offered food only when able to be maintained at a warm
temperature.
Don’t handle reptiles
post-feeding or allow the temperature to drop excessively or regurgitation
occurs.
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Healthy
Reptiles
Most reptiles presented
to wildlife carers are the victims of trauma, either by cars,
domestic pets or misinformed people. Sometimes healthy reptiles
are presented to, or rescued by carers and it is important to
be able to recognise these healthy specimens and release them
ASAP as close as is practical to where they came from.
Most reptiles encountered are either snakes, lizards or tortoises
so we will look specificially at these. Specialist texts may be
consulted for marine chelonians and crocodiles.
Snakes:
Healthy snakes are recognised
by being quite active when handled or disturbed. The forked tongue
flicks in and out frequently, eyes are bright and clean. Remember
that level of activity in reptiles is influenced by their body
temperature which is largely dependent on ambient temperatures
- so colder reptiles will be less active than warmer ones. Approximately
one week prior to shedding, their skin will take on a dull hue
and eyes become cloudy, so don’t mistake this for cataracts
or other eye disorders.
Lizards and Tortoises:
Similarly, lizards and
tortoises should have clear bright eyes and be active when handled
or disturbed. Tortoises should hide their head and legs within
their shells when disturbed.
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Examination
of Reptiles
Thoroughly check all
reptiles for skin wounds, shell cracks, blood in eyes, nostrils,
ears, mouth, vent and also check for other discharges. All scales
should be flat and even, the body should be symmetrical and the
bones well covered. Check lizards for broken legs and tails. Check
snakes for mites which appear as small white/brown specs around
the eyes and moving between scales. Any reptiles that are likely
to be kept for any period of time should be wormed or at least
checked for worm eggs and other internal parasites in the faeces.
** Remember that any
wild animals when placed in captivity are under stress and are
therefore more susceptible to infectious disease and heal more
slowly. Every attempt must be made to reduce stress by supplying
ideal temperature, humidity, shelter, food and water and healing
time!
After making a thorough
physical examination of a reptile, decide whether or not it is
in need of veterinary care, rest and recuperation, nursing care
or whether immediate release is a viable or preferred option.
Seek veterinary care
if...
- Reptile requires euthanasia
- Reptile has deep
wounds which are infected or require stitching
- Reptile has broken
limbs or shells (tortoises)
- Wounds penetrate
into coelomic cavity
- You think reptile
requires medication
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Injuries,
Diseases and Conditions Commonly Seen in Wild Reptiles
Listed below are some
diseases or conditions you may encounter.
Trauma:
Trauma is the most common
reason for presentation of wild reptiles. Lizards and other reptiles
presented as a result of road trauma in most cases have a poor
prognosis. Snakes most commonly receive crushing injuries which
are so severe that they result in death.
These snakes may show relatively minor external wounds, but internally
have fatal injuries. Any snakes or lizards with relatively minor
external wounds, but internally may have fatal injuries. Any snakes
or lizards with crushing injuries between the head and cloaca
(vent) as a result of road trauma should be euthanased immediately
- although they may survive for hours, days or weeks post trauma,
they inevitably die. Crushing injuries to the tail carry a good
prognoses if wounds are treated correctly.
Dragons are often presented with head trauma as a result of blows
by vehicles, rather than crushing injuries. If they have closed
eyes and are flat or have markedly unsymmnetrical heads they have
a poor prognoses and should be euthanased. Less severe head trauma
cases are worth trying to save and may respond well to a few weeks
or months of good husbandry. Check vision and ability to catch
live or moving food prior to release.
Tortoises, as victims
of road trauma, in most cases have single or multiple fractures
of the carapace. All shell fractures, except for chips around
the border, should be repaired with either epoxy resins and/or
fibre glass. Even quite bad fractures or the carapace and/or plastron
carry a reasonable prognoses if treated by a veterinarian promptly.
Severe multiple fractures of the carapace and plastron with exposure
of internal organs and possibly internal crushing, carry a poor
prognosis and these tortoises should be euthanased immediately.
Tortoises are often presented
with fishing hooks in mouths or lodged further down. Unless you
are easily able to cut or remove hooks, consult a veterinarian.
Trauma to snakes and
lizards as a result of attack by domestic dogs or cats varies
a lot in severity. Many cases are difficult to assess and prognosticate
on at the time of presentation because skin wounds are often small
whereas internal damage may be severe.
All cases should be treated
with antibiotics for at least a week and with antiseptics such
as iodine or lotagen,. Snakes and other reptiles that are presented
flat or moribund after a dog or cat attack, rarely survive and
should be euthanased immediately. Prognosis of these cases improves
with the level of activity of the victim after the attack.
Snakes and lizards with
unsealed penetrations into the coclomic cavity need immediate
veterinary attention. Large open or infected wounds respond very
well to debridement of dead tissue and contaminants and daily
application of lotagen gel or spray, or similar preparations.
Antibiotics may also be useful. Large clean wounds may require
stitching by a veterinarian.
Other injuries such as
broken limbs, spines, joints etc should always be taken for veterinary
attention.
Miscellaneous
Conditions:
Subcutaneous
Sparganosis - a condition caused by intermediate stages
of sparganid tapeworms causing small, slightly mobile soft lumps
under the skin - common in tree snakes and red-bellied black snakes.
These are not of much medical significance - so leave them alone.
Dysecdysis
- difficulty in shedding skin. Skin should be shed as a whole,
snakes and lizards with large portions adherent shedding which
do not come off easily by hand should be soaked in room temperature
water eg in a large garbage bin with lid (23-30 degrees) for up
to 30 minutes, then remove any remaining shedding by hand.
Occasionally snakes will
retain one or both spectacles (which are the scales covering each
eye) and appear as eye opacities. These can sometimes be removed
with fine forceps, but are usually sloughed at the next shedding.
Mites
- rarely a problem in otherwise healthy snakes. If necessary treat
with weak pyrethrin rinses and spray the box with pyrethrin based
fly sprays.
Respiratory Infections
- occasionally seen in wild reptiles or arid area reptiles such
as shingle-backs brought into humid areas. These are diagnosed
by observing bubble blowing from nostrils and hissing or wheezing
respiration. Snakes often have swelling in the lower throat region,
and the forked tongue is stuck together. Consult a veterinarian.
Worms
- diagnosed by faecal examination for eggs or regurgitated items
of food with worms. Consult a veterinarian.
Protozoans
- diagnosed by faecal examination by a veterinarian. May cause
weight loss, anorexia, and loose faeces or no disease at all.
Rarely a problem in wild reptiles. Consult a veterinarian.
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Useful
References
Identification
Texts
- Gow, G. Complete
Guide to Australian Snakes. Harper Collins. Sydney 1993
- Cogger, H. Reptiles
and Amphibians of Australia. Reed Books. Chatswood 1992
Husbandry Texts
- Weigel, J. Care of
Australian Reptiles in Captivity. Reptile Keepers Association
Gosford 1998.
- Harlow, P. Reptiles
In: Care and Handling of Australian Native Animals. Ed Suzanne
J Hand Surrey Beattey and Sons P/L 1990.
- Walraven, E. Guide
to the Care of Urban Wildlife.; Allen and Unwin 1990.
Veterinary Texts
- Wilson, P. Emergency
and Critical Care of Reptiles. In: Proceedings of the Annual
Conference, Australian Veterinary Association Qld Division,
Brisbane 1993.
- McCracken H. Husbandry
and Diseases in Captive Reptiles In: Wildlife. Post Graduate
Committee in Veterinary Science. University of Sydney 1994.
General Texts
- Shine, R. Australian
Snakes - A Natural History Reed. Chatswood 1993
- Murray, E. Living
with Wildlife Reed, Chatswood 1989 pp 143-160
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